%16LAzY8RAVsB+oA1zY1tvb61qQIg+J/oZ0mhKnGFp64=.sha256

@nabijaczleweli6 years ago %16LAzY8RAVsB+oA1zY1tvb61qQIg+J/oZ0mhKnGFp64=.sha256

Frame from Fig. 11 with tile from Fig. 12 cut down to drawn-on size on top, both cut edges nicked over their entire length
Fig. 13: remember chil'ren: always cut tiles right-side-up so you don't nick the user-facing side.

WARNING #2: see WARNING.

…there seems to be something somewhat resembling a (table(?)/drawer) top, but how does one mount it?
The simplest solution would be to add protruding corners on the tile edges to limit its movement and roughly key it to the top, and, according to Occam's razor, it's therefore also the best, so let's do it!

But what could possibly be strong enough to hold up under the table, yet malleable enough to become formed to a nice 90-degree corneur?

Same cut-down tile from Fig. 13, upside-down and on the frame, atop it laying bottle of acetone, packet of cyanoacryllic glue, and four corners bent out of 2.5mm² ground (yellow-green insulation) solid wire
Fig. 14: it's the return of the… oh, wait; no way, you're kidding – she didn't just bend what I think she did, did she?

Yeah, boiiiiii, that's right, it's our old pal, the 2.5mm² copper wire (as well as some acetone and a cyanoacryllic glue (not pictured: another packet since this one seized up, a syringeful of acetone to get that one to budge, couple chunks of wood and a clamp to get them to set properly)).

Same setup as in Fig. 14, but the corners are now placed at the tile corners and glued there, in the tile center a photomontage of, on the left, photo down the side of the frame with the top mounted, to the right, photo through under one of the corners after glueing
Fig. 15: Photoshop skills on par with glueing skills (take it as you will).

How-ever, afterwards, we're left with a pleasant scent of of a job goodly done (and actually down to spec, surprisingly enough).

So, this is it, ~~it's what you eat, sleep, piss and shit; live, breathe– your whole existence just consists of this~~ the moment where the drawer supports themselves are mounted.
The right side (i.e. the one that ends narrower-sexion-toward-user) is easier, because there's two surfaces, and the drawer is engaged on both of them, so if one just adds something to support that…

Photomontage of, on the left a drill and a 33 OD PVC pipe, on one end ziptie going through through-drilled holes on the same line, on the other ziptie enters through side roughly 55 from end and exits from open end, on the right that pipe mounted on the right side of the frame from Fig. 11, roughly two thirds of the way up
Fig. 16: it's ziptie madness, baby.

With the right side mounted right-cock-stiff, let's see what we can do about the harder left side.
You could, en theorie, employ an analogous system, with a narrower pipe, maybe like that one for the box, but what could possibly hold it up at such a distance? If only there was some part, possibly a cut-off of some previously-used one, that, with little work, could serve as a support for the narrower pipe?

Photomontage of, on the bottom-left, a cut-off of the rest of the remaining part of the pipe from Fig. 16, a saddle filed down after a wider knee, on the top-left that same part from top-down with zipties in a crossing pattern, on the left with distance from end lower than that on the right, the filed-down side, on the right the part mounted, the filed face up
Fig. 17: guns strong enough to pull apart nylon (which is to say: not necessarily very).

Note how, at the top, the leg-ziptie distance is bigger, leading to more tension on that side and more resistance to forces pushing down on the right, which is exactly what one wants in a unidirexional application like this. Actually, speaking of the devil, who's applying that force?

(Chunk three of four, got hit by size limit) #art-of-the-bodge #diy #makers #carpentry