Feed of @nabijaczleweli

she/her

Programmer, crocheter, computer and otherwise artist, recreational chemist, book and electronics enthusiast, periodically human.

@nabijaczleweli5 years ago %uVrFY0W4GNIQ72m6TgxWoCnbV9AM9/jqkDI/B82lmQM=.sha256

Changed something in about

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  "about": "@Fv5NC77/OgEkfBeWn5zuqjB0KfQbrlL3xRKX2PtbJh0=.ed25519",
  "image": "&21wgTQIdPn+2S/fucLXPnizAMF0zJYStQe0UQm/QQ0A=.sha256"
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@nabijaczleweli5 years ago %nJJN73bIzwsh8l6R7NulcHZzCLo2JAbIY9H5znL+Qaw=.sha256

c a e k b a e k

Cake #cooking #baking

@nabijaczleweli5 years ago %SZhLHYJd5o+xBvi94HLI3nvKOHx5ekf9DwRzOH2hAl8=.sha256

Voted Fuck yeh, the queers are arriving on SSB! (to join those of us who are alre

@nabijaczleweli6 years ago %wcXYbge6EiCeb+MiWg5x+k7wNn7vJyGKqSI33tOOGTI=.sha256

Re: %lkuWzM7aj

Photomontage of, on the left, a narrow yellowish pipe like in Fig. 8, touching the top of the part mounted in Fig. 17, in the center that same part, with the narrow pipe pushed down to the saddle by the drawer thereon, on the right, the same narrow pipe mounted from the end to the leg with a ziptie, the lock tucked thereinto
Fig. 18: there were too many jokes with "lay" and "pipe" for me to insert all of them here.

It's the return of the ~~oh, wait, no way, you're kidding~~ smol pipe from earlier indeed, and that's exactly who; with surprising elegance, no rogue zipties sticking out, and the paint on all the pipes gets short work done of with a splash of acetone.

And, with that, the drawer is truly done. But a bodge would not truly be a bodge without feature creep, and the first feature that crept into my head was a grate on the side to hang things off of.
Usually, this'd be a nightmare to make, with either (a) assembling some weird tiny wood frame or (b) drilling even holes in sheet metal/board, but thanks to my ~~thriftiness~~ detrimental tendency to collect things that might be even slightly remotely useful…

Two pieces of steel, painted grey, with a lot of 6mm holes and a couple 9mm in the center
Fig. 19: you know what they say: never throw anything away, and you might end up on TV one day, for one reason or t'other.

I had a some steel left over from a dead home theater (funnily enough, that same system also contained a half-kilogram heatsink, it's a sight to behold).
As for coupling them, the simplest non-ugly solution was to just solder them together:

Those same pieces of steel from Fig. 19, soldered together with a 1.5-hole overlap, laying on top of a vice, with a hot-air-gun in the background
Fig. 20: easy as embedded software: works beautifully up until it doesn't, and then it's a nightmare to fix.

The first two attempts consisted of vicing the deep end of the smaller piece then "gently" pushing the other one down, ensuring no cold joints.
Desoite that, though, they fell apart under even tiny amounts of torque, so I decided that that's exactly what's needed to make it work: the final solution ended up being two nuts being viced in, bolts slowly being driven thereinto, clamping the plates with the hot lead between them, which works to this day.

Now, the only thing left to do with this is mount it…

The same soldered grate from Fig. 20 laying on the tile-top, with a small screw next to it
Fig. 21: it's supposed to be the ~~soldier~~ hanger, that never blows its ~~composure~~ construxion, even if it means carrying the weight of ~~the whole world~~ a couple things on its shoulders.

With, on the right, the screw I didn't quite manage to tighten all the way down, because my finger got, as mentioned previous, split right-half'n'two, and on the left a smaller screw that fits in that tiny hole:

The same soldered grate from Fig. 21 screwed with the screw therefrom into the top-right side of the drawer frame, hanging off it, from the left: a torch, a torch striker, and a torch
Fig. 22: I've created a monster, 'cause nobody wants to see carpentry no more, they want 2.5mm² copper wires, I'm chopped splinters (okay, I'm not so sure of this one).

And, with that, our journey has come to an end, and naught is left but the tags, to thank you, the reader, for reading, and the final photo of our absolute monster of a creation:

The entire drawer, with all components (incl. drawers) mounted in
Fig. 23: My (slightly misframed) son.

(Chunk four of four, got hit by size limit) #art-of-the-bodge #diy #makers #carpentry (it's a bit of a stretch, innit :v)

@nabijaczleweli6 years ago %16LAzY8RAVsB+oA1zY1tvb61qQIg+J/oZ0mhKnGFp64=.sha256

Re: %lkuWzM7aj

Frame from Fig. 11 with tile from Fig. 12 cut down to drawn-on size on top, both cut edges nicked over their entire length
Fig. 13: remember chil'ren: always cut tiles right-side-up so you don't nick the user-facing side.

WARNING #2: see WARNING.

…there seems to be something somewhat resembling a (table(?)/drawer) top, but how does one mount it?
The simplest solution would be to add protruding corners on the tile edges to limit its movement and roughly key it to the top, and, according to Occam's razor, it's therefore also the best, so let's do it!

But what could possibly be strong enough to hold up under the table, yet malleable enough to become formed to a nice 90-degree corneur?

Same cut-down tile from Fig. 13, upside-down and on the frame, atop it laying bottle of acetone, packet of cyanoacryllic glue, and four corners bent out of 2.5mm² ground (yellow-green insulation) solid wire
Fig. 14: it's the return of the… oh, wait; no way, you're kidding – she didn't just bend what I think she did, did she?

Yeah, boiiiiii, that's right, it's our old pal, the 2.5mm² copper wire (as well as some acetone and a cyanoacryllic glue (not pictured: another packet since this one seized up, a syringeful of acetone to get that one to budge, couple chunks of wood and a clamp to get them to set properly)).

Same setup as in Fig. 14, but the corners are now placed at the tile corners and glued there, in the tile center a photomontage of, on the left, photo down the side of the frame with the top mounted, to the right, photo through under one of the corners after glueing
Fig. 15: Photoshop skills on par with glueing skills (take it as you will).

How-ever, afterwards, we're left with a pleasant scent of of a job goodly done (and actually down to spec, surprisingly enough).

So, this is it, ~~it's what you eat, sleep, piss and shit; live, breathe– your whole existence just consists of this~~ the moment where the drawer supports themselves are mounted.
The right side (i.e. the one that ends narrower-sexion-toward-user) is easier, because there's two surfaces, and the drawer is engaged on both of them, so if one just adds something to support that…

Photomontage of, on the left a drill and a 33 OD PVC pipe, on one end ziptie going through through-drilled holes on the same line, on the other ziptie enters through side roughly 55 from end and exits from open end, on the right that pipe mounted on the right side of the frame from Fig. 11, roughly two thirds of the way up
Fig. 16: it's ziptie madness, baby.

With the right side mounted right-cock-stiff, let's see what we can do about the harder left side.
You could, en theorie, employ an analogous system, with a narrower pipe, maybe like that one for the box, but what could possibly hold it up at such a distance? If only there was some part, possibly a cut-off of some previously-used one, that, with little work, could serve as a support for the narrower pipe?

Photomontage of, on the bottom-left, a cut-off of the rest of the remaining part of the pipe from Fig. 16, a saddle filed down after a wider knee, on the top-left that same part from top-down with zipties in a crossing pattern, on the left with distance from end lower than that on the right, the filed-down side, on the right the part mounted, the filed face up
Fig. 17: guns strong enough to pull apart nylon (which is to say: not necessarily very).

Note how, at the top, the leg-ziptie distance is bigger, leading to more tension on that side and more resistance to forces pushing down on the right, which is exactly what one wants in a unidirexional application like this. Actually, speaking of the devil, who's applying that force?

(Chunk three of four, got hit by size limit) #art-of-the-bodge #diy #makers #carpentry

@nabijaczleweli6 years ago %KJ0qKWVdtT2OjB1NOQkgePZOq0Yk/BOhFbzJ7i0vVxM=.sha256

Re: %lkuWzM7aj

Photomontage of parts analogous to the one from Fig. 5 standing upright in a rectangle-like fashion, left side with a wisegrip on the corner and the drawer from Fig. 6 at about mid-height, supporting a calipers, right side without drawer
Fig. 7: The frame, standing upright on its own for the first time, filling me with maternal pride.

And with that, the job is done!
Well, a drawer would preferably have things in it (like, dunno, drawers), but let's do that after some testing, i.e. mounting a 12-inch-wild parts box (pretty damn wild, considering I bought it at a French store in Poland) because that's, frankly, just a tad hard.

So, considering this very much a bodge, this comes down to stuff I have in my wardrobe(? actually very angry at English for not having a good literal "szafa" analogue), basement, and just scattered around the house en général.
And so, out the wardrobe comes some 12mm ID/16mm OD PVC piping, out the basement come zipties, and out the house come copious amounts of tea. What can one do with those? The obvious (to me) answer was "weld them" but that's probably because I have yet to manage a successful weld on a plastic :v

Photomontage of, on the left, a yellowish pipe, slightly scorched at the end, to the scorching welded a piece of transparent-white plastic, clearly cut off from an end of a ziptie, on the right that same implement hanging from the jaws of a wisegrip
Fig. 8: the only time I could say I smoked a fag (or, well, close enough, visually).

And that still has not changed (turns out that that PVC is not only laced with some additive that charred itself, but also isn't a good match for nylon), but it's defintely ruled out any welding (for now), so the next-obvious thing is just making a ninety-degree groove on both ends and sticking it on top of zipties' locks (not gonna hold much weight, but it doesn't need to, really).

Photomontage of, on the left, the frame from Fig. 7, with zipties tied around at the same height, on two opposing corners, locks facing in, on the right a length of pipe can be seen hanging on the aforementioned zipties by way of roughly ninety-degree grooves at the ends
Fig. 9: incredible; just… incredible engineering, Lavoisier'd be proud (also incl. my incredible file in newspaper in vice setup, pride likewise).

So, what does my dumb arse try to do next?
If you guessed "weld another piece of the pipe to this one" you're damned right.
Did it work?
Obviously not, come on, when does plastic welding work for anyone.

Anyway, next step is to add the supports going from the remaining corners. But what with, if welding didn't work?

Fig. 10: you know, there are some times, when you do a stupid solution and it works, where you think to yourself "this is just dumb", but this ain't one of them.

Electrical tape. Obviously it's fucking electrical tape.
But, you know it, works…

Same frame from Fig. 10, with all corners mounted with and parts box, cartouche, and wrench(?) thereatop
Fig. 11: you can't even see how badly this is bodged from here!

And quite goodly at that.

Now, the next logical part would be the drawers, but those turn out to require thinking, so let's do the top instead.
I don't've any flat wood(ish) parts big enough, so the next-best thing (and quite better, due to flood-resistance) is a piece of big ceramic bathroom tile I nicked (free of charge) when they were throwing them out a storehouse.

Upside-down frame from Fig. 11 laid on upside-down tile, swirly line patterning visible, inside the frame lays an angle grinder wheel labeled "Diamond disc turbo", outside, a constant distance from the frame, a line drawn on the underside of the tile
Fig. 12: you know the old design mantra "it's better when you turn it upside-down"? It was, but less practical, so let's stick with it being right-up.

So another trip to Green Homeless Deathspot Equivalent™ to get the DIAMOND TURBO DISC ~~OF DEATH~~ and liberal application of an angle-grinder later…

(Chunk two of four, got hit by size limit) #art-of-the-bodge #diy #makers #carpentry

@nabijaczleweli6 years ago %lkuWzM7ajgi0PFt8DtJMlprZfp8vnm/DmiOcl/8vYDw=.sha256

The Art of the Bodge

Drawer(?) of questionable quality scantlings, a soldered vent, and some tiles (feat. lots of PVC piping, zipties, and 2.5mm² copper wiring)

During a ~~sunny~~ scalding summer day, as I strolled through the local Yellow Gettin' Spot, a, frankly, repulsive ghastly image appeared in front of my eyes, shaking me to my core (of little effect, as I was practically melted right through), causing me to hurriedly leave the mirror and reach the plumbing/fireplace/chimney sexion, with a prominent listing of vents of ~~all~~ like three shapes and sizes, so in another bout of overheat-induced good choices, I obviously got one.

(Well, it's less of a good choice and more I needed to test out flame-soldering on some steel and making a drawer out of it was the first thing that popped into my head, but anyway.)
So, after a liberal application of an angle grinder and some dodgy (at best) clamping…

Photo of two vertically-oriented soldered together pieces of 25x150x475 steel, held together with a clamp at the bottom and wisegrip at top, including a pencil torch marked "Pencil Torch" and a roll of solder
Fig. 1: the vent after a lengthwise cut and some delicious ~~lead~~ solder binding.

…We've something that vaguely resembles something.
Or, at least it better bloody do, after I put on welding gloves in the smelting summer oven and probably almost blew myself up filling up this damn "pencil torch", which, in addition, gave up the damn ghost right after this (nothing like Quality Products™ for two and a half bux' equivalent).
So, how does one make anything into something?

Amalgam of multiple design scans, divided into multiple sexions: vent/drawer at the top, two versions of top-brace assemblies below to the right, general big-picture drawing roughly center, measurement model of my desk and how to cut the material to the left, and mounting of the (table?)top at the bottom
Fig. 2: a very coherent design drawing set, clearly written by someone without executive order dysfunxion and in one sitting.

By drawing the damned thing. Well, it would help if one didn't take two bloody attempts before arriving at a sensible top termination/brace solution (because while everyone has tools at home, not everyone has a resident engineer therein) (also note how at two different times I'd drawn the drawers I'd come out with two different depth measurements, which is Fun™).
With that drawn (and consulted against the material I had ~~at hand~~ in basement), then, let's roughly trim it down.

Photomontage of photos of 22x55x150 scantlings, on top four untouched ones, incl. an A4 piece of paper, roughly resembling Fig. 2, on bottom-left marked with a fountain pen, and on bottom-right cut with- & a mitre saw
Fig. 3: An artistic interpretation of those 22x55x150 (or I guess not anymore) scantlings being cut; not pictured: the top brace chunks.

WARNING: always be exercising caution when operating power tools, and adhere to the manufacturer's (and, more importantly, common-sense) markings.

Well, that's a mitre saw, and I'd rather not lose an eye (less likely, I was wearing glasses, glasses, and a facemask, I don't fucking trust that thing) or leak guts (more likely, I don't have any abdominal protexion) when trying to trim it to even lengths, let's apply some, cough, engineering:

The cut scantlings from Fig. 3, triply clamped in a mitre box, with a hacksaw stuck in
Fig. 4: an absolute marvel thereof, actually worked quite good, surprisingly (despite almost striking me with heat, but eh).

Now that's better, innit – they're actually recognisable as legs (one even has a knee (after a fashion(?))), so it's time to buy some screws (because in three boxes of screws I have on hand there are none that) – 40x3, so they get good grip but don't poke through – and apply them:

The trimmed scantlings from Fig. 4 with analogous shorter bits, one screwed, and one clamped orthogonally
Fig. 5: okay, look; the timestamp says it's 3:39, so I take no responsibility for how shit this photo is (but I do take it for the fact that it's the only one I took after deciding it's good enough).

Now, after sleeping, rolling a finger in on a threaded taper of a woodsplitter (thereby splitting mine), and finishing up the drawers,

The big hunk of steel from Fig. 1 cut in half, one half upright, the second face-down
Fig. 6: now, after deburring and lacquering, she's looking feisty, probably from the blood drained off me during filing.

And, well, thanking local gods for actually making my back-of-forehead calculations result in this nice of a tension-fit:

(Chunk one of four, got hit by size limit) #art-of-the-bodge #diy #makers #carpentry

@nabijaczleweli6 years ago %6omiL8ydMDfEFiF7pRQGMfrdFwvfBSQ5qWq+KOmGJJs=.sha256

Subscribed to channel #russian

@nabijaczleweli6 years ago %1rSpGJ6VUKkI+uy3y6wE6vLbb6sahEcy7cR3kTXZZsA=.sha256

Re: %mJAUo+USS

Thanks, I'll deffo have a look around and maybe see something that could be "unconventional" by common means and I have enough photos of to highlight!

@nabijaczleweli6 years ago %8/DHGlApfOpWx9livYdMXv6I73Rs/eIeMcDa6gWsVUU=.sha256

The Art of the Bodge

Necklace/pendant from non-{marble,Travertine} and some nichrome/copper wires

One evening, as I'd descended a staircase to acquire some food I noticed father abusing the table/counter(? whom is English?)-top/mantlepiece(? English is a mystery wrapped in an Enigma (which is to say, busted by the Polish)) next to the fireplace.
Seeing as he'd already discarded a cylinder therefrom, I unconspicuously grabbed it, and ran.

Photomontage of greenish brownish cylinder in horizontal and vertical position, horizontal includes a small non-through hole at one of the ends
Fig. 1: The stolen cylinder in question, fresh from ~~the presses~~ ~~stealin'~~ sawin'.

Now, believe me and your eyes when I say she was nasty at that point, seeing as she was freshly cut out with a holesaw – surface dull as a middle-aged white dude in the suburbs of London, skid marks all over the perimeter.
There is but one (okay, two, as the other's throwing the bloody thing out, though) way to berid of these issues: sand it.

Similar photomontage of same cylinder, sanded to a better sheen
Fig. 2: The same cylinder, still in question, but sanded to a superiour sheen so as to better facilitate gawking.

And so, a quick trip to a certain Green-Triangle-branded Homeless Deathspot equivalent and a good fifteen minutes of going through all the sensible grits of wet sandpaper I could find there (320 (blaze it(?)), 600, 1000, and 2000) later, I managed to get her looking feisty (the shitstains look better IRL because you're not as close, probably don't have flash in your eyes, and I slathered some ~~baby~~ mineral oil on it afterward).

Now, this is the time I'd to finger out just what this thing was gonna be, and, seeing as it already had a semi-hole in it from the holesaw and a partially developed chain(? more on that later) had been hanging on the door handle to my bedroom for the best part of the past three months, I decided to go with a necklace pendant.
And so, a pendant requires to have a topological hole, as opposed to what amounts to a dent:

Similar photomontage of same cylinder, showcasing a new angulated through-hole, meeting with the original one
Fig. 3: I'm pretty sure about the cylinder now, and there's holes to hang it somewhere now!

Well, to make a hole one first needs to know what they're drilling in. Now, as is apparent from the title, and confirmable organoleptically, this is neither actually marble nor is it actually Travertine, but the reason these two were specified is that that's what the "experts" say about what it is, so it's probably something close to both, while being neither.
However, that is quite enough: it's roughly stone, and so carbide tooling should be used. But: was it? No, I didn't have carbide 2mm drills, so I just took the first HSS one I did have and hand-drilled (extremely engaging activity, recommend it!) it at an angle that's enough to meet with the original dent and in a place which showcases the cool brownish part.

Now, with that done and sanded, what to hang it on? Yes, of course your neck. But how?
This is where the aforementioned handle-wire comes in:

Bundle of shiny wire braid, two main components 0.2mm nichrome, third accent component 0.1mm copper
Fig. 4: Braid of Asian-hair-thin (according to Schwarzkopf) copper wire and two nichrome ones, roughly twice as thick.

This beaut, while absolutely brilliant, is a complete bitch to braid (some'd say it's more indicative of the operateur (hi!)), and so she hadn't made the cut, time-wise, for the birthday thermite pendant I ended up lacquering the day of, definitely no time to braid two 0.2mm coiled nichrome wires with a 0.1mm copper core (also technically coiled but so thin she doesn't hold shape).
Now that she's all done and terminated, is anything left but to ~~tangle it into your hair~~ hang it on your neck?

Aforementioned cylinder and wire braid hanging from a neck.
Fig. 5: Well, here she is, and ain't she pretty? (The necklace thing, of course, not me, pearls before swine and all.)

(No, there is not. Well, besides the tags, that is.)

#art-of-the-bodge #diy #art #womensart (I guess, also, technically?)

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